Eye Makeup for Different Eye Shapes

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As we age our eyes may change in all sorts of (annoying) ways! First the brows start to disappear or become wiry and unruly. Secondly the skin on the lids becomes looser, more dry and crepey looking. Lashes may become more sparse and overall the eye shape itself might change. The wonderful thing about eye makeup is that you can use it in clever and inventive ways to reshape and improve the look of your eyes.

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    Here are six common eye shapes and the ways to use LFF eye makeup to improve both the shape and definition of each one. Remember the rule of thumb that lighter shades make the area more prominent and darker shades make the area less noticeable. So the trick is to highlight the best bits and draw attention away from any problem areas.

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    This is the easiest of all eyes shapes and the one on which you can experiment most. Just keep the integrity of the three areas: the lids, the socket line and the brow bone. First: shape the brows using Brow Shape. Apply the Eye Prime to smooth the lid and then add a pale coloured shadow. On the brow bone add highlighter. Using a mid tone shadow define the socket line and take it to the outer edges of the eyelid to create a triangle of colour which matches the almond shape. Add a thin line of dark shadow at the lash line using a wedge brush and finally add mascara to curled eyelashes.

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    In this shape there is almost too much space between the brow line and the lash line which creates a ‘heaviness’ at the lid and the eyes appear small in comparison. Rebalance with shadows once you have reshaped and defined the brows. Apply a mid tone colour to the lids to reduce their prominence and above this into the upper lid area and brow bone apply a lighter tone shadow and blend well. Now use a mid tone colour along the lash line and then complete with mascara applied to curled eyelashes.

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    This is where the skin on the eyelid has loosened and now entirely covers the socket line so that the eye no longer has three distinct areas but two - the lid and the brow bone. So the whole point of eye shadows for hooded eyes is to restore the illusion of a socket line. After shaping the brows and applying Eye Prime, add a pale shadow to the lids and highlighter to the brow bone. Now take a darker shadow and using a brush create an ‘arc’ of colour where the socket line would be. Add extra definition at the top and bottom lash line with a small amount of the darkest shadow if you decide that it won’t ‘close’ down the eye too much and finish with mascara.

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    The importance of well shaped and defined brows cannot be overstated. All eye shapes benefit from the rebalancing that good brows give to an older face. If you have some scant brow hair you may want to keep it at all costs but it can look far nicer to ‘tame’ these errant hairs or even remove them. When doing makeovers I often advise to pluck out overlong and very wiry brow hair so that the Brow Shape can actually do its work of creating the illusion of beautiful natural brows. To apply the Brow Shape: groom the brows with the spoolie brush and using feathery strokes, lightly build enough colour and definition to create the right length and shape of brow to balance your face. If you feel it is too dark just use the spoolie brush to correct it.

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    This is where the eyes appear closer together because there is a ‘heaviness’ at the brow bone where the skin appears to have dropped down over the outer edge of the eye. Shape the brows by keeping them slightly shorter than usual at the outer edge. Add Lid Colour to the inner third of the eyelid to make this area ‘pop’ and then use darker eye shadows on the outer edge to minimise. Add a darker shade to the outer third of the upper and lower lashline and finish with mascara on both the top and bottom lashes.

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    In this eye shape the eyes have a ‘sunken’ look as there is a very deep and dark socket line and the eyelid may bulge slightly. So the key requirement is to make the socket line look less deep to create better balance. Start with the brows and use the Brow Shape to add colour and definition. Apply a mid tone colour just to the lid area, ensuring that you don’t push the colour into the socket line. Now use a lighter tone shadow into the deep socket line and up towards the brows. Use a denser line of the mid-tone eye shadow at the top and bottom lash line and complete the look with mascara.

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